First I went on safari in Tanzania, just across the border from where you were in Kenya. This was a trip with my college roommate, and we had a wonderful time, and I was rather shocked and amazed to find out I loved Africa! I had thought of it as something to "get through", and was just delighted with it. I had fun studying my Kiswahili tourist phrase book, making some rather colossal bloopers, and finding out I could sort of understand what our guide was saying over his two-way radio. At one time he said (in a nice way) "Watch out for that one! She understands Swahili!"

I can't even think of what I liked best, but probably the animals in such close proximity to our van. Seeing the baby giraffe hiding (sort of) in some brush, seeing the baobab trees, having elephants eating right outside the van window, watching the leopard stalk the wart hogs (go, leopard! But they chased her off, so no meal at that point.) We had a pretty congenial group (and yes, we did meet up with some of them as we traveled from Amsterdam, finding them by their luggage tags and t-shirts. We were on an REI safari.) with the exception of a rather odd woman who was a professional clown, and who carried a stuffed monkey everywhere with her. There were 3 Judys on the safari, and one of them could often be heard commenting on "that damned monkey". Just to make things less complicated, my roommate (Judy Floyd Starr) became "Starr", and I became "Shangazi Judy" (Auntie Judy). Then the third Judy could just be Judy.

The second time I also went to Tanzania, two years later. I had visited with a veterinarian at our church about Tanzania (he and his wife had spent 6 years there with the Heifers International Project/Peace Corps.) and he asked if I would like to accompany him back again, as he was going to go over to do some vaccinating and testing for brucellosis and TB, and would like someone to go along to help. I jumped at the chance! And of course I had spent at that point 40+ years living and working on a cattle farm, so I knew somewhat what I was doing! It was very interesting (walking through streams infested with who knew what kind of parasite, barefoot) and we stayed with a wonderful family Bruce knew from having lived there previously. To little Kathryn, age 4, I immediately became Shangazi Judy. Again, a very interesting situation, because we were (although pretty royally treated) living the same life as everyone else in the town.

It was such a neat experience, and we have kept touch through e-mail. They keep saying, "When are you coming back?" This was in the town of Kilindoni and surrounding farms, on the island of Mafia, east of Dar es Salaam and south (I think) of Zanzibar. We flew in, and the ferry ride back across when we went home was quite another experience to add to my tales to tell! I think I liked this trip the best, because of meeting and getting to know the people (I am looking at a beautiful 5' x 7' handwoven mat that a lady named Aisha gave me, which is now hanging on the wall of my office.) and because Bruce and I were looking for a project that would help the area, that we could come back and raise funds for in Oregon. We decided, after visiting clinics, schools, and farm communities, that we would put in a well in the Baleni school area, which is where most of the farmers lived whose cattle we worked with. My friend Bruce discovered he had terminal cancer when we returned to the US, and he passed away this last May, but we did get the well completed, and now those people have clean water to drink and use, as does the school. (which was quite large.) I guess you can see why I liked that trip the best. I don't know if I'll be able to afford going back again, but it would be really neat if I could.

My friend Judy ("Starr") is just nuts about birds, so our guide on the first trip made a special effort to point out and find them, which was pretty delightful. Early on we bought books that had plants, birds, animals, snakes, etc., and wrote when we saw anything in the book. The birds are really exotic, and sound so different than the ones here. Who knew (well, probably everyone but me) that storks are scavengers? Make the idea of them carrying little babies rather sick! Our guide called them "the undertakers".

Do have fun!!--Judy

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I look forward to opening my emails and seeing your entries! I am so very excited that you 3 are getting to have this experience. If you can collect a teaspoon of sand over there

I would love to add it to my collection! Be safe ~! Hugs, Mar (Mary N .8 Gr. Science Teacher) 

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We sat in the dining room just after brunch during our siesta time. The tour leader said we should be spending the time "ten toes up", but we decided it was a good time to write in our journals and sort pictures and such.

The question was asked, “When is a good time to come to Africa?” The answer, “When you are in Africa.” We truly are here at a good time! It is late spring, the beginning of the rainy season and the trees and bushes are just beginning to leaf out. There is some water in the Chobe River overlooked by our camp.  Later on in this season, the delta will be completely covered with water. No animals then. Looking just across the river is Namibia, the strip that comes across between Zambia and Botswana where with Zimbabwe, 4 countries meet. Any time we look out, we see many animals including herds of cattle owned by Namibians. They are subsistence farmers, we were told.

 
Elaine walking to cabin No. 4

 
Tent cabin No. 4

Inside tent room

Our Guide Tinashshe, Tom, Elaine (& Joel) Swinging on the "Python" Vine

View from the lodge

The camp's IT staff

Our lodge/meeting center

The drummer came at 5:30 this morning, but due to the upset of our circadian clock, we were already awake and ready for a quick shower. A light breakfast was served before we boarded the safari vehicles at 6:30. They are typical for this area, Land Rovers, open with a canvas top and four rows of seats including the driver. As you go to the back, each row is higher than the one in front so all have a good view. We set off down the dirt road to the highway to take us to the entrance to Chobe National Park. We had to give our passports to the tour guide so he could get us in. From there, we were on dirt roads some with quite deep ruts. Elaine and Joel got out their inflatable cushions to help smooth out the bumpy ride, otherwise called an "African Massage".

Down the highway in the Land Rover

There was a hard rain two days ago that settled the dust which is a blessing. The temperature was about 70 as we left. We immediately started seeing the animals:  antelope, greater kudu’s with the spiral horns, cape (or African) buffalos.  Many birds including the endangered ground hornbill (with large crimson bill), lilac breasted roller, red billed teal, open billed storks, carmine bee eater, etc. Even the ugly warthogs with a face that only a mother could love, were cute scampering along with their babies. The giraffes were close by and crossed the road ahead of us looking for some trees to nibble on. Our guide has said several times, when looking for animals, look through the bush, not at the bush. It’s true.

Entering the Chobe National Park

We dropped down along the river which was clear of most of the bushes and scrub trees.  We could see herds of zebra’s, maybe more than a hundred, lots of impalas and water bucks. The many birds including flamingos (white), black storks, and even an African fish eagle, about the size and coloring of a bald eagle. The list goes on and on.

The protocol is that when we get to some animals, we take pictures first then ask questions. We are not allowed to stand up since animals see us and the vehicle as one object. Standing up would break that image and perhaps cause the animal to charge or run. We are to wear neutral colors especially avoiding black and blue. The former offends some animals, the latter attract tsetse flies.

Midmorning we stopped for a coffee, tea and "rest room" break.

Break time. 

 
Ugly wart hogs

Impalas watching the tourists

Giraffe

 
Elephant crossing

Cape Buffalo

Baobab Tree

 
African sunset

  
African Fish Eagle

Zebras

A short time later we arrived back in camp just in time for brunch. This afternoon it is probably 100, but sitting under the fans drinking ice water, it is not too bad. At 3:00 some women from the village came to demonstrate basket weaving during which we had tea and coffee.  Many baskets were purchased and wrapped to be sent on to Victoria Falls (to keep our luggage weight down.  The basket show was followed by an afternoon game drive that ended about 7:00 and dinner. Every review we read of this trip talked about how many animals we would see, but it was impossible to believe. After this morning, we are believers.

 
Buying African baskets

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Many were awakened after midnight to a crashing and thrashing outside our cabins. The elephants were attacking! First we need to tell you a little about where we are staying here at first of four camps. It is operated by Overseas Adventure Travel, from whom we booked.  Our group of 14 are the only ones here (and that's about the capacity of this camp). There is a main lodge, open air with a lounge, bar and dining area. We are on a hillside looking down onto the Chobe River estuary. At times the bottom land is all water, but now there is lots of pasture. Adjacent to the lodge is a pool and patio area.

Down a trail from the lodge are 8 cabins each about 50 feet from the other. They are built into the hillside with about 8 steps up to the front door. The walls are cement with rock on the outside and plaster on the inside. The roof is polls with canvas on top. The ends, and windows are a mesh to let air in. There is a bathroom with shower and very comfortable beds with a frame to hold the mosquito netting. We were provided with "Peaceful Sleep" insect repellent, bug spray, and a mosquito coil.  We also have a ceiling fan.

Back to the elephants. a small herd decided to feed on the vegetation that is beginning to green up around the cabins. They make a lot of noise doing this. Joel woke up in cabin 4 and heard what first seemed like an animal inside the room. It was determined that it was outside, but didn’t seem too bad. He went back to sleep and Elaine slept through everything. Tom, on the other hand in cabin 8 heard a lot of noise got up and looked out and saw the huge shapes plowing through. In the morning there was fresh dung around his place. The ladies in cabin 2 knew that their lives were in mortal peril and blew the medical emergency horn. Another guy looked out the door with his flashlight and saw a mother elephant with a baby. He didn’t want to get in between, so he went back in. Needless-to-say, people were not as rested this day.

Today was a whole day of animal viewing.  We left camp at 6:45 AM, entered the park and began driving all around in search of lions. The guide knew they were around since he saw fresh tracks, but they are pretty elusive. We drove on all the roads, each vehicle going a different route keeping track with 2-way radio. We did see jillions of impalas and 2 large crocodiles sunning themselves with their mouths wide open for cooling. This aids the digestion, we were told. Finally it was time for "peanut butter and jelly" lunch. Actually the kitchen staff brought a complete meal to us in the field! Chairs were set up for us to eat our quiche, salads, sweet potatoes, fruit, bread, crackers and cheese.

Safari highways

Picnic lunch

On our way to the our river cruise, we chanced upon seeing a lion. The male of the pride was lying under a tree completely sacked out after feeding. I think we could have gone over and sat on him and we wouldn’t have flicked an eyelash. 

Let lying lions lie

Leopard tracks

 
Leopard tortoise

  Francolin 

Banded Mongoose

Water monitor

The river cruise launched from the Safari Lodge in Kasane on the Chobe River on a patio boat with a guide/captain. At this point, the Chobe river is just a few miles from joining with the Zambezi were the four countries come together. We soon saw many hippos, crocodiles, birds, Cape Buffalo, warthogs, etc. The highlight for all was getting quite close to about 60 elephants with lots of babies on a trek to the river for socializing. Males come by to see if any females are in estrus, and in a while the family groups separate and the leader of each group charts a course and they go back up the hill. The males stay behind then go off in a group.

Animals at the Chobe River

At the Chobe Safari Lodge

The dinner on our last night was a special barbecue in a fenced area near the lodge.  We were invited to the “Chief’s (the camp manager) Meeting” where disputes are usually settled.  Before we were ushered in, we at on the deck where the camp staff performed for us.  We heard traditional African music and saw the tribal dancing.  Then it our turn to entertain for them!!  June came up with the idea that we would sing “Old McDonald’s Farm” with a different twist.  The animals would be African and our tour director would have to give sound effects for them.  He had done them previously, so we knew he was up to it.  It needed a little more polish, but was declared to be more than 90% perfect by our more than gracious hosts, who had begged us NOT to do the “Hokey Pokey.” 

The chief called the meeting because he had been informed that there had been a grave violation of customs by the camp.  On one night, the ladies had been allowed to go to the buffet table first.  This could not be tolerated.  In fact, the ladies should come around and wash the men’s hands.  We were then served traditional food:  beef, lamb steak, spinach and butternut squash.  We were told there would be no dessert.  It is not their custom.  However, soon after dinner out came a cake with candles and a card wishing Joel a Happy Birthday at such a revered age.

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Love the photos and journals!  Ginger  R.

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Hey Tom Thanks for sharing....amazing trip for you.....I love the 'feature' of a 5:30 Drum Alarm to wake you up.... have fun....Janek B.

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What a treat to get to "see" what you all are up to! It looks fascinating! Be safe!    Mary N.

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Hi Tom, Greetings from Portland! Thanks for your truly fascinating and well-written accounts of your African adventures. What a trip of a life-time! Bart O.

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Tom - Thanks for the new travel update. I hadn't received one for awhile. Jim Y.

Chobe to the Moremi Tented Camp Okavango Delta, Mon Nov. 21 (06)

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Tinashse is the name of our guide/escort for the entire time we are at the wildlife camps.

Beating the drum to wake us up!

Today we slept in an extra hour since we would be travelling to our next stop the Moremi Tented Camp in the Okavango Delta.  We drove about 45 miles to Kasane, Botswana to the airport.  It is small with mainly propeller planes to ferry adventurers to remote destinations.  Our group boarded two fourteen passenger Cessna Grand Caravan 208B's for an hour’s flight to a dirt strip at the edge of the delta.  There was no copilot as would be required in other places. Dan, in our party, was a pilot in the the US Air Force sat up in the co-pilot's.  Our pilot was a young woman, pretty new to flying, learning the business and getting her hours in. 

We were met by the camp's Land Rovers and began the drive to our camp.  We didn’t quite know what to expect since Tinashse, our fearless leader, had emphasized that this would be a “tented” camp.  Before heading back to camp, we were driven on a bumpy ride to the side of the airstrip where we saw a pair of male lions.  They were returning to this lion territory to try to claim leadership of the pride they had been kicked out of several years ago.  They had been in a big fight last night, but now were just lion in the shade where they spend most of their time.  Later that afternoon game drive, we returned to find they had moved to the edge of the runway close to the terminal (looking like a bench at a bus stop!).  Two university students were in a vehicle watching them for research.  They will follow them all night.

Departure lounge at Hasane Airport

On board

Airstrip called Santawani for the Moremi Tented Camp

Lion Trackers

Welcome to Moremi Tented Wilderness Camp

After lunch, Tinashse, gave us a talk regarding the problem of the overpopulation of the elephants in the African national parks.  The good news is that the decline in numbers (from hunting and ivory harvesting) has turned around and they are no longer on the endangered list.  The bad news is that in Chobe, for example, there are estimated to be 120,000 in an area that can comfortably handle about 40,000.  They need a tremendous amount of feed each day, and they eat almost everything, including twigs, branches, bark, roots, leaves, grass and dirt.  All the bushes look like they have been pruned (mangled), and huge trees are girdled and left to die.

One difficulty is that if you kill one elephant, you need to kill the entire family since those remaining will take revenge, so to speak.  For example, if a vehicle drives up, shoots and kills one, the others elephants will attack the next vehicle they see.  An elephant never forgets.  An organization called Elephants without Borders vigorously opposes culling and the issue is not resolved. 

Any concerns about our quarters quickly subsided as we walked into a beautiful canvas roofed common area built around a huge tree, on piers which are about four feet off the ground.  On either side raised walkways go out to the individual tents, placed far from each other.  When you are in yours, it seems like there are no others around.  They have toilets and showers and a very comfortable bed.  There are down comforters that seem excessive when the daytime temperature approaches 100.  You find yourself pulling them over you before morning comes. (More photos of our tent cabins, to follow)

We were escorted to our tents, and told to remain there until daylight unless there was a medical emergency when we could use the air horn.  It had been a long day.   

Young male lions near air strip

Gift shop at Moremi Tented Camp

Lounge

Dinner

The Santawani "Airport Terminal"

Mosquito coil

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Hi all, (Nov 21, 2011)  We are at the Kasane Airport awaiting our flight to the Okavanga Delta.  It will be a little under and hour.  We found wifi, so I’ll try to get a message off.  It really isn’t possible to send more installments of our travel journal with pictures, so this will be a stopgap.  Our messages are written, but will probably not be sent for at least another week. 

We are finishing our first leg at the Baobab Lodge in the Chobe National Park in northeast Botswana.  We were there for three nights and three incredible days.  The lodge overlooks the Chobe River delta, and we could sit in the open air lounge area and gaze upon animals of all sorts who have come out to graze on the green grass as the rainy season starts.  We heard thunder and lightning, but didn’t experience any rain.  It could get up to 100 at midday, but was comfortable at night as we slept under mosquito netting in our cabins.  Second night excitement was when a herd of 20 elephants or so decided about midnight to forage around our cabins.  Quiet and dainty they’re not!

We had game drives beginning at 6:30 until about 11:00 and from 4:00 until 7:00 when the park closes.  One afternoon was spent on the river in a patio boat watching the crocodiles, Cape buffalo, lots of birds, many hippos, some in the water and some out, and about 70 elephants with lots of babies that came down to drink and socialize. 

 Last night kids came in from the villages and the staff to sing for us traditional African songs.  Then we had a traditional African dinner complete with a birthday cake (not traditional.)

 Must go, we’re moving to the next room.   ... Joel and all

Wow, this so takes me back to my safari, that I am going to forward your reports to my college roommate, who went with me on ours. The presentation of the meals (don't you find the food really good?), the closeness of the animals (no telephoto needed, right?), the danger outside your tent at night, the luxurious tents--wish I were there!

I had heard about the elephants in Botswana, and that the farmers really have a plight, because what (besides shooting them) is going to stop a herd of elephants? I hadn't realized they take revenge, but why not? But having been one, I really feel for the farmers, who have currently a losing battle.

The daughter of my friend from Mafia, Tanzania, is studying to be in the hotel business, and I think that probably means working at the lodges. We really liked the lodge workers, and were especially appreciative of the "guards" who walked us to our tents, etc., because there were lions, buffalo, wildebeestes, etc. right outside the tents and near the paths.

I should tell you that for my computer the pictures don't come through, so Nancy is forwarding her letters to me, and then I get them. No idea why I don't!

I bet you are using the gift shops for Christmas shopping! When you get back it will be cold December in Oregon again, though Tom will be in sort-of-sunny California!

Sure enjoying your reports--Judy

Exploring the Okavango Delta, Moremi Tented Camp Nov 22 (07)

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We were awakened before five this morning with someone calling in the tent to ask if we had any water.  Thinking they were referring to drinking water, we said yes.  Later, we went to start the shower, and found out he meant something else.  First we heard it was caused by elephants, who sense where water is there and dig up the pipes with their feet.  Apparently it was a mechanical failure, but we like the other version better. 

We figured everyone was in the same boat, so we put on our clothes and trudged down the wooden path to a continental breakfast.  Our path does go down to the ground for a patch, so that the animals can cross, then back up.  At 23 degrees south latitude, the sun comes up with a bang, no long sunrises here.

Today’s plan:  one group would go on a game drive, and Tom, Joel and Elaine’s group would be taken to the nearest Okavango channel.  This, the world’s largest inland delta, is formed by the rivers coming down from Angola with no outlet to the sea.  The water levels ebb and flow with the seasons due to evaporating and filtering into the sands of the Kalahari Desert.  We boarded fiberglass versions of the "mokoro" (traditional dugout flat bottomed boat) used through the ages by peoples along the water.  They are poled by a person standing on the back.  Ours seats two passengers.  Some native people still use the wooden ones but in an effort to conserve the large trees they are made out of, they are encouraged to use the fiberglass ones.

Before we go further, just a word on restroom facilities in the bush.  There aren’t any!  When we pull up for a stop, the driver says, “women to the left, men to the right after I check out the bushes.”  This is fine for men, who would like this all the time.  For women in the western world, it’s a little different.  Just ask Elaine about the “Freshette” or “Lady Jane” devices.  If we need to make an emergency stop, we tell the driver we need to check out a bush.

Speaking of the facilities, the common lavatories in the lounge area are referred to as the “loos with views.”  Appropriately, there are anatomically correct figurines on each door. 

Hers and His

The "bat room" on the way to the bath room!

Standing under Bat Room waiting for Bathroom

Back to the delta:  we boarded the boats and began a lovely, peaceful trip of about 2 hours.  The boats felt a little tippy at first, but one soon got used to it  we were instructed not the lean to far to the right or left lest we cause the poler to lose his balance.  The polers gave us all sorts of information about what we were seeing.  We learned that they take courses and must pass tests and be licensed in Botswana to be a guide. 

 
Mokoro "native dugout canoe" ride with poler propulsion

Find the eggs of the African Jacana ("Jesus bird")

Hippo "road block"

We saw beautiful water lilies, many bird species, including the huge saddle bill stork that has to make 3 or 4 jumps for takeoff.  The African Jacana, nicknamed the Jesus bird, is especially interesting since it appears to walk on water.  It has long toes and is actually walking on the vegetation.  At the furthest point, we saw 7 or 8 hippos making a pretty effective barrier. We stopped about 100 yards away and watched them.  Although more humans are killed by hippos in Africa than any other animal, they won’t bother you if they don’t feed threatened.  Solitary ones are the most dangerous.  If you are attacked, the best defense is to swim underwater making no splashes, we were told.  Fat chance.

As we sit here and work on journals and pictures during the afternoon ten toes up time in the afternoon, we can look out and see a grassy partly open area.  Cape buffalo are grazing, and we can see just a few feet out where elephants have pushed over a tree and stripped bark.  We can walk on the walkways during the day, but we are instructed to retreat if we see an animal.  They will come get us if they don’t see us for a while.  Or, perhaps, we didn’t heed the warning, and they won’t find us at all.

Later in the afternoon.  At high tea we had a lecture on Zimbabwe from our trip leader, who is a Zimbabwe citizen.  He wanted to talk to us about the political situation there, dire, while we were still in Botswana.  When we get to his country next week, he doesn’t want us to talk about politics.  Since most news organizations have been banned from the country, if we were to be holding a camera and seen talking to anyone about what is going on, we could be considered to be a reporter and arrested.  We wouldn’t be seen again. 

We had a very nice afternoon game drive with the main objection to find lions.  When the call was sounded, Capt. Jack Sparrow, our driver, took off hell-bent for leather , ripping across the bush mowing down whatever was ahead of us as we held on for dear life.  We found 5 female lions several with radio collars getting ready to go out hunting as the sun went down.  Our drive back was illuminated by headlights, lightening and a gorgeous sunset.

Jackel

Some lions wear radio collars

Wildebeast hiding among the zebras

Dinner was about 8, and then we were escorted to bed.  We’re asleep as our head hits the pillow.

Dinner is served

Tom and Gracious who made the baskets he bought.

Elevated pathway to tent cabins

On the porch

Closing the "door"

Tent Cabins

The IT Crowd at Moremi Tented Camp

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Time to celebrate.  My Lovely daughter Eilona gave birth to my second grandchild...she is a healthy 8 lb. 1 oz girl..Her name is Eva Rose... Love ....Janek

Too big for one page!  Click here to see African Safari Part 2